BACKGROUND:Hyperpigmentary disorders like melasma, actinic and senile lentigines are a major cosmetic concern. Therefore, many topical products are available, containing various active ingredients aiming to reduce melanin production and distribution. The most prominent target for inhibitors of hyperpigmentation is tyrosinase, the key regulator of melanin production. Many inhibitors of tyrosinase are described in the literature; however, most of them lack clinical efficacy. METHODS:We were interested in evaluating the inhibition of skin pigmentation by well-known compounds with skin-whitening activity like hydroquinone, arbutin, kojic acid and 4-n-butylresorcinol. We compared the inhibition of human tyrosinase activity in a biochemical assay as well as inhibition of melanin production in MelanoDerm skin model culture. For some compounds, the in vivo efficacy was tested in clinical studies. RESULTS:Arbutin and hydroquinone only weakly inhibit human tyrosinase with a half maximal inhibitory concentration (IC(50)) in the millimolar range. Kojic acid is 10 times more potent with an IC(50) of approximately 500 μmol/L. However, by far the most potent inhibitor of human tyrosinase is 4-n-butylresorcinol with an IC(50) of 21 μmol/L. In artificial skin models, arbutin was least active with an IC(50) for inhibition of melanin production > 5000 μmol/L. Kojic acid inhibited with an IC(50) > 400 μmol/L. Interestingly, hydroquinone inhibited melanin production in MelanoDerms with an IC(50) below 40 μmol/L, probably due to a mechanism different from tyrosinase inhibition. Again, 4-n-butylresorcinol was the most potent inhibitor with an IC(50) of 13.5 μmol/L. In vivo efficacy of 4-n-butyl-resorcinol was confirmed in clinical studies. Subjects with age spots on the forearm treated twice daily two age spots with a formula containing 4-n-butylresorcinol and two control age spots with the corresponding vehicle. Within 8 weeks, 4-n-butylresorcinol reduced visibly the appearance of age spots, while the control spots showed no improvement. A second study showed that 4-butylresorcinol was more effective than 4-hexylresorcinol and 4-phenylethylresorcinol. CONCLUSION:The present in vitro and in vivo data prove the high inhibitory capacity of 4-n-butylresorcinol on human tyrosinase activity, exceeding by far the potency of hydroquinone, arbutin and kojic acid. The resulting clinical improvement of skin hyperpigmentations reveals 4-n-butylresorcinol as a very valuable active compound for the management of pigmentation disorders.

译文

背景:诸如色素沉着,光化性和老年性小扁豆的色素沉着过度症是主要的美容问题。因此,可获得许多外用产品,其包含旨在减少黑色素产生和分布的各种活性成分。色素沉着过度抑制剂的最主要目标是酪氨酸酶,它是黑色素生成的关键调节剂。文献中描述了许多酪氨酸酶抑制剂。然而,它们大多数缺乏临床功效。
方法:我们对评价具有美白活性的对苯二酚,熊果苷,曲酸和4-正丁基间苯二酚等具有美白活性的化合物对皮肤色素沉着的抑制作用感兴趣。我们在生化分析中比较了对人酪氨酸酶活性的抑制作用以及对MelanoDerm皮肤模型培养物中黑色素生成的抑制作用。对于某些化合物,在临床研究中测试了体内功效。
结果:熊果苷和对苯二酚仅能微弱地抑制人酪氨酸酶,最大抑制浓度(IC(50))在毫摩尔范围内。曲酸的效价高10倍,IC(50)约为500μmol/ L。但是,到目前为止,最有效的人酪氨酸酶抑制剂是4-正丁基间苯二酚,IC(50)为21μmol/ L。在人造皮肤模型中,熊果苷对IC(50)的抑制作用最小,可抑制> 5000μmol/ L的黑色素生成。曲酸被IC(50)> 400μmol/ L抑制。有趣的是,对苯二酚抑制了MelanoDerms中黑色素的生成,IC(50)低于40μmol/ L,这可能是由于其与酪氨酸酶抑制作用不同的机制所致。同样,4-正丁基间苯二酚是最有效的抑制剂,IC(50)为13.5μmol/ L。在临床研究中证实了4-正丁基间苯二酚的体内功效。前臂上有老年斑的受试者每天两次用含4-正丁基间苯二酚的配方治疗两个老年斑,并用相应的媒介物治疗两个对照老年斑。在8周内,4-正丁基间苯二酚明显减少了老年斑的出现,而对照斑则没有改善。第二项研究表明4-丁基间苯二酚比4-己基间苯二酚和4-苯基乙基间苯二酚更有效。
结论:目前的体内和体外数据证明4-正丁基间苯二酚对人酪氨酸酶活性具有很高的抑制能力,远远超过了对苯二酚,熊果苷和曲酸的效力。导致皮肤色素沉着过度的临床改善表明,4-正丁基间苯二酚是用于治疗色素沉着疾病的非常有价值的活性化合物。

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