In winemaking, a large amount of grape pomace is produced that is rich in polyphenolics and highly beneficial for human health, as phenols are useful for skin ultraviolet (UV) protection. In this investigation, we evaluated the safety and clinical efficacy of a sunscreen system containing a grape pomace extract from Vitis vinifera L. as a bioactive ingredient. The recovery of phenolics in the waste was performed by percolation. Nine emulsions were developed using a factorial design and two were evaluated clinically: Formulation E, containing only UV filters (butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA), and F, with the extract at 10.0% w/w + UV filters. The antioxidant activity was determined by the DPPH assay and the in vitro efficacy was established by sun protection factor (SPF) measurements (Labsphere UV-2000S). Clinical tests were performed to determine safety (human repeated insult patch test) and to confirm efficacy (photoprotective effectiveness in participants). The results showed a synergistic effect between the sunscreen system and the extract on UVB protection and antioxidant activity. Both samples were considered safe. Formulation F was 20.59% more efficient in protecting skin against UVB radiation, taking approximately 21% more time to induce erythema compared to the extract-free sample.

译文

在酿酒中,产生了大量富含多酚类物质并对人体健康非常有益的葡萄渣,因为酚可用于皮肤紫外线 (UV) 保护。在这项研究中,我们评估了含有葡萄葡萄果渣提取物作为生物活性成分的防晒系统的安全性和临床功效。废物中酚类物质的回收是通过渗滤进行的。使用析因设计开发了九种乳液,并在临床上评估了两种: 配方E,仅包含UV滤光片 (丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷、乙基己基甲氧基肉桂酸酯和乙基己基二甲基PABA),以及F,其中提取物为10.0% w/w + UV滤光片。通过DPPH测定确定抗氧化活性,并通过防晒因子 (SPF) 测量 (Labsphere UV-2000S) 确定体外功效。进行临床试验以确定安全性 (人类重复侮辱斑贴试验) 并确认疗效 (参与者的光保护效果)。结果表明,防晒系统与提取物之间对UVB保护和抗氧化活性具有协同作用。两个样本都被认为是安全的。制剂F在保护皮肤免受UVB辐射方面20.59% 更有效,与无提取物样品相比,花费大约21% 多的时间来诱发红斑。

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